Back to reality

I’m briefly back to reality after a lot of studying, school has been hectic, mildly speaking. We currently have easter break for 5 days. I sneaked in some sewing yesterday and managed to make 2 tolies of Deer and Doe’s Chataigne Shorts. I had to make some major changes due to the fact that they don’t come in my size but I think the fit is pretty good now so there will be a new pair (or more) of trousers soon.

Chataigne shorts

You might remember my Bow-Tied Blouse in red that I made for the Mad Men challenge and that was supposed to be a white one well hear it is, in organic cotton interlock from tygpyssling, When the fabric arrived on a really bad and stressful day and she had put in some extras for me and the fabric was fabulous, it was the best thing that could have happened.

Bow-tied blouse

We were just about to walk out the door to take some nice pictures when Peter asked if the camera worked, as it turned out both our DSLR cameras where out of battery, so this is a sneak preview phone photo, just so you know that I’m still here. 

If you didn’t know The Spring Top Sew-along hosted by Made by Rea is currently going on, if you want some blouse inspiration look at the #springtopsewalong tag on Instagram or the flickr group. She has some blousey giveaways on her blog too if you are interested in that.

May is coming closer and with it Me Made May, this will be my first time participation and I’m really excited about it. My goal is to wear me made garments with exception for my rain coat, socks and undies, hopefully I have made 2 more bras by then so I can wear my own very comfortable bras exclusively. Me Made May is not necessarily about only wearing hand made it is about challenging yourself to actually use what you make, so if you are feeling hesitant about joining you can set your personal goal to wear something you made 2/week or 1 item every day, it’s up to you. You can find all information about Me Made May here. 

I am currently planing to make a lot of things ,drawing sketches on the buss on my way home form school or in the lunch break. The little top you see in the picture at the start of this post is one that I have fallen in love with in the idea stage and hopefully it will become an equally beautiful top in reality soon.

What are you thinking and planning?

Bow Tied Blouse

Bow-tied Blouse

Bow-tied Blouse from Gertie’s new book for better sewing, even though the measurements in the pattern was spot on I had to grade out 1 or 2 sizes for the bottom of the blouse in order for it to fit around my hips. I lengthened the pattern about 2 cm and added 2 extra buttons as well as lowered the lowest one a cm or so. Love this pattern. I did make some major changes to it but now it is perfect and fits like a dream. I thought that dressed buttons would give it the posh style that the rest of the blouse has and I was right the dressed buttons transformed the back to the vintage inspired 60′s top that I was going for. I need to make it agin. I used the Essentials 13 mm metal cover buttons. I think that the metal ones stays put better then the plastic ones and I always put a little glue inside so prevent them from fraying after a few washes and wear.

Bow-tied Blouse

The pattern it is based on is Vogue 7347  from 1951. It seems that Bow-tied Blouses has been going in phases over most of the 20:th century, my mom said that I looked like my grandmother in the 80′s and that I should wear it the next time I see my father.

My sewing time has been very limited recently and therefore it will be my project for the mad men challenge. I had originally planned to make a white one as well and a navy pencil-skirt and a lacy longline bra for the challenge and I think that I will still come to that, but it might take some time. I’m currently taking a class in advanced medical chemistry and it is taking a lot of my time in the evenings as well as the lectures during the days. On that subject, the professor had a very flowery shirt to day, it was nice but a bit unexpected, on the other hand he often wears edgy sport style clothes, that’s noticeable and stick out from the rest.

Lace bra

Here it is the bra in progress, it’s been like this since saturday so almost a week now.

Lace bra

I read the Fashion file cover to cover in less the 24 hours a month or two ago, written by the fashion designer in madmen Jaine Bryent, it was very inspiring. I don’t agree with everything (the high heels of one) but the drawing was amazing the the text uplifting and very well written. If you have the opportunity to read it is it well worth the time, I checked it out from our local library.

Fashion file Fashion file

Aren’t her drawings amazing?

I’m thinking about making a nursing top for my pregnant cousin for her birthday, is that appropriate?

I’m not sure and would appreciate your comments on that.

Green stripes

Hawthorn 2 green stripes

This is my second hawthorn, you can find the first here, it is made in a thin striped linen in the colour of spring. I modified the collar to make it wider and to make it lie flat (the original looked like airplane wings ), the skirt to a gathered one and drafted cap-sleeves. I had planed for dark brown wooden buttons but after searching 4 different notion/yarn/fabric shops, I gave in and went for turquoise pear one instead. If I ever find the perfect brown button I might have to change them, since it would give the entire dress the feeling a was going for, more of a rustic, swedish summer feeling.

It was windy and I had huge trouble with taking photos so after selecting the acceptable ones I only had photos of my backside which is weird.

Hawthorn 2 green stripes Hawthorn 2 green stripes Hawthorn 2 green stripes Hawthorn 2 green stripes Hawthorn 2 green stripes  Hawthorn 2 green stripes Cayley

Here you can see my Cayley with buttons, this has become my go-to sweater, blue, warm and comfortable. Hawthorn 2 green stripes

Next up sewing wise is a bow tied blouse that I have been working on. I really want a white silk bow tied blouse as well but have trouble locating some affordable fabric if you have any suggestions on where to find some “heavy”silk crepe or similar are welcome. An ivory lace bra, I bought a beautiful lace and some silk organza for it a few days ago, I am really excited to start that and it will probably be the next project I lay my hands on, it going to be so beautiful.

Bra making

Bra

This is my first me made bra, it is not perfect but it fits and I love it, there will most definitely be more.

Bra  Bra

I ordered the materials from Bra-makers supply in Canada and since it was the first time, I ordered a complete kit, just to get it right. I was very nervous about making it but it is really quite straight forward, I did read Demystifying bra fitting and construction by Norma Loehr and I recommend it if you are thinking about making your own bras but never get to it or you can just read her blog, it is amazing. Cloth habit also has a lot of good posts about bra-making and a backlog from the bra sew-along from last year. She was the one that originally inspired me to make bras just look at this pink and brown one.

Bh material i Sverige:

B wear: byglar, casing, färdiga kitt och Pin-up girls bh mönster, levererar snabbt och jag fick tillbaka överskottet på portot stort +.

Röda tråden: har även korsett material , Har inte beställt härifrån än men skall testa vilken dag som helst nu då jag planerar att göra en “longline” bh och behöver boning.

Bibbis textil: har byglar och casing mm. (har inte beställt här ifrån)

Om du vet fler så är jag mycket intresserad så lämna gärna en kommentar så jag kan spana in dem. 

The process

I made 2 toils in woven linen in the first one it felt like about everything was wrong and I started to mistrust this idea, it seemed like I ordered the wrong size pattern and inexperienced as I am wasn’t going to be able to fix it but after modifying the band under the cups it all just worked and a little cup modification and it fit me. My size is 38″B but my wire size is 42 so apparently I have flat and wide breast and that it why I have such trouble finding bras that fit.

Bra making sewing

 

I didn’t like the shiny side of the fabric from the kit so I basted it together with the stretch net or the back band to create a matt finnish. I used the pin-up girls Classical bra #1230, I widened the band a bit  and the straps to match my findings.

bra

Negroni

Negroni shirt

Negroni shirt by Colette patterns made  in a soft blue shirt linen I made a few fitting adjustments to the pattern. I used about 1.3 meter of a 3.1 meter width fabric 2 spools of 100m cotton thread and 8, 12mm buttons.

For the next one: I will take it in a bit in the back and possibly remove the pleats

Negroni shirtNegroni shirtNegroni shirtNegroni shirtNegroni shirt

Some one didn’t really want to cooperate with the camera.

Circle skirt

circle skirt banksia top

This is a circle skirt made in linen, I bought some linen online in the beginning for the summer, believing that is was a thin nice shirt linen, but when it arrived here it was thick, scratchy and not nice at all. So in an attempt to use up all of my small fabric stash I made this skirt and it is quite nice and I have had a lot of use from it already. I don’t want to have a lot of fabric taking space and especially fabric that is unlikely to be used. and the Baniska top is much better tucked into a skirt.

circle skirt banksia top circle skirt banksia top circle skirt banksia top

 

Plantain t-shirts

When my favorite designer released this fabulous t-shirt for free I rushed to buy some fabric (or I thought I did) as it happens the online purchase never went through and I have been waiting and worrying about why it hadn’t arrived yet. As I was looking for all the purchase information so that I could ask the company why they hadn’t sent my package yet, only to realize that there was no purchase at all. After this I searched in my special storage for a special fabric and found some that was suitable. These are the first 2 of many more to come, the pattern is beautifully done and easy to follow. It has a few sleeve options and nice elbow paths if you like that.

First up, a thicker wintery sweater suitable for a snowy day like this (we got about 30 cm outside our window, love it) made in a cotton french teary, it is sturdy and excellent for this T. It feels great to wear and looks more professional because of its sturdiness.

Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt  Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt

And last, Merino double knit with a little elastane to make it rebound well. The fabric has a bird eye pattern with rose red and white even if the photos don’t show it very well. I have been saving this for some time until I found the perfect sweater pattern.

Plantain t-shirt

Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt

Details: I lengthened the sleeves about 5cm and sewed the sleeves with only 3/8″ seam allowance instead of 5/8″ and left out the elbow paths, otherwise I followed the pattern precisely.

Kimono sleeve dress

Kimono Sleeve dress

This is Kimono sleeve dress from Salme Patterns, made in a flowy light rayon. I love it, the fit the colour and the cool and airy feel of it. My husband do not agree, he think it looks like an oversized t-shirt. I think it might be lovely to wear in the summer because of it’s airiness as well as it the winter with a slip underneath. I used french seems for the side and shoulder seems and rolled hem for the neckline and the hem. So what do you think, is it a nice dress or an awful oversized t-shirt that should never be worn?

Kimono Sleeve dress Kimono Sleeve dress Kimono Sleeve dress Kimono Sleeve dress Kimono Sleeve dress