As you might have noticed there has been a change of style in my creations lately, that’s to say I have been making other stuff than dresses and cardigans, even shorts which is something I haven’t worn for years until this summer. Early spring I got a craving for beautiful blouses and what do you wear with blouses? Skirts or trousers and that how it all came about. After struggling to fit my first pair of shorts and, being me, wanted to continue making shorts until I had mastered it completely, continued making more. As I went on I realized that I really like sewing trousers or shorts which is what I have been making lately and that trousers don’t have to be uncomfortable or slide down when you sit down and there are more blouses that look better with trousers then they do with a skirt with the exception for a pencil skirt but they aren’t really comfortably nor easy to move around in. So I think this parade of separates might continue for some time.
The latest in this is my knitted Waterlily top from the spring edition of Pompom this year, knitted in Sandnes Garn Alpakka/Silke. Here it is modeled with a wool panel skirt I made about 2 year ago, and I see now that it needs a bit of pressing but just ignore that please. I made a few modifications to the pattern in order to make it fit, firstly I added hip and waist shaping then I lengthened the body approximately 10cm. I also lengthened the yoke 3 cm below the braid and 2 cm in the lace section. The one thing I’m not perfectly pleased with it is the bind of in the back neck I made a few decreases to get it tight but it is still a bit floppy, I’m going to try and sew in a tiny thread of elastic to see it get better otherwise I will have to re do that part. This project made me realize that I don’t like to knit lace anymore, I think that a little bit of lace in a knitted garment makes it more professional and neater looking but I wish someone else would knit that part. That said I’m thinking of maybe making another one in turquoise or yellow, it so beautiful and comfortable and I think it will be great with a cardigan in the winter.
This outfit make me feel like I’d fit in the mini series The Bletchley circle taking part in London 1952.
Sorbetto by Colette, this is their free pattern, I made it out of an old sheet that I got from my grandmother a few years ago, it is well used so the top probably wont last for very long but still it is a very cute top. Here it is modeled with my Tania Culottes. The modifications I made was sewing and folding the bias-tape to the inside, grading out one size over the hips and lowering the bust dart about 2 cm.
Size range: bust: 84-117cm
Sorbetto is very quick and simple to make and still elegant in the right fabric, the most difficult thing with this pattern is to choose a fabric that makes it that cute 60′s top that it is. I have a dusty mint viscose waiting to be a second one any day.
Inspired by Ada Spragg two piece set I bought the Esther shorts pattern and made my myself a pair the same night, to wear the next the for a day in the amusement park with my sister. The pattern fit perfectly on the first try after straightening the leg inseam as I always have to. I made them in a Vintage cotton canvas that use to be my grandmothers curtains in the late 60′s, 70′s.
The short have a high waist that is intended to hit the natural waist, for me it hits below the natural waist straight over my belly button but I like it better that way I used binding for the hem and in that way lengthened them a few cm to a more flattering length I think that gives an illusion of longer legs and together with the high waist still looks like you are wearing a reasonable amount of clothes (I really don’t like mini shorts or anything mini on adults). Highly recommend the Esther Shorts.
Size range: Hip: 91-117cm Waist: 64-89cm
See that perfect pattern matching in the front seam.
I still have a problem with trousers stretching out of shape as I had before, they did really fit perfectly for half a day then getting soaked a few times they stretched out, hopefully they will shrink again in the wash.
But is there anything I can do about this?
Because it is getting frustrating to perfectly fit a pattern only to have a to large pair after use.
Finally some new running pieces, the top is Coppelia by Papercut patterns made in a light lace merino jersey that I have been saving since for almost a year for better skills in knitted fabric sewing as not to ruin it. It will be a perfect layering pice. The shorts are Prefontaine Shorts from Perfect Pattern Parcel 3 made in a Woven cotton stretch with the same merino jersey for the binding.
It has been too hot for test running the top but the shorts work just fine. I really like matching sets and wish my shoes were turquoise instead of blue but thats how it is.
Loki sweater in size 2 years, knitted in Filcolana peruvian highland wool in the colourways 281 (blue), 101 (white), 254 (apricot)
Loki sweater in size 6 years, knitted in Filcolana peruvian highland wool in the colourways 190 (green), 101 (white), 254 (apricot)
Loki doesn’t have any neck shaping so I added a couple of short rows below the yoke and one above the yoke for the green. It a fun and quick knit and the yarn is wonderful to work with. Filcolana peruvian highland wool is squishy and soft for normal wool but not super soft it still is a little scratchy but still soft enough for most children I think and it works really well for colourwork having just enough grip to keep the stitches in place. I’m thinking of making a yoked sweater for me to in this, I like the idea of sweaters but the ease of taking on and of cardigans without making to much of a fuss in classes or on a packed bus, so we’ll see what becomes of it. As of my blouse fever I’m knitting a blouse and have ordered yarn for another one, on the needles and almost finished is Amélieby Gudrun Johnston in the amazing yarn Canopy Fingering by The Fiber Co. as called for, it is super soft slightly drapey but not overly so and semi variated witch gives depth to the colour. and soon to be started is Waterlily from Pom pom issue 8 as long as the yarn I ordered works. So hopefully I will be wearing a lot of skirts, blouses and jumpers this winter.
I’m so glad to be knitting again and to have the inspiration back after 6 months.
This is my first project from Love at first stitch by Tilly and the buttons that I got for my birthday. I had to make a broad shoulder expansion (see here) in order to get in to it but the result is a beautiful, airy and very comfortable blouse. I used nani IRO double gauze cotton fabric, which is amazing by the way. The buttons are 11 mm self covered buttons it the same fabric.
This pattern was the biggest reason that I wanted this book it’s just a perfect blouse. The pattern in the fabric doesn’t work as well as I thought for this blouse but it is still a lovely blouse and there will be more of them. I love this yoke, it is similar to the yoke in Brigitte by République du Chiffon that I’m working on (or it’s waiting for a coordinating zipper) it very feminine and airy so it works well on hot summer days which we currently have today it is supposed to be 29 celsius.
Book review of Love at first stitch by Tilly Walens
The book have very clear step by step photo tutorials for all techniques used and is easy to use, the projects are organized so that is you start on page one and then work your way through the book you can start as a beginner and learn a little at the time and master technique after technique until the 2 final project the Mimi blouse with collar, bias binding, neck facing, button holes and pleats and the Lilou dress with lined, under lined, fitted bodice and pleated skirt. All the patterns are intended for woven fabric.
Pro’s Easy to follow instruction to a few beautiful patterns and clear photography.
Cons There are fitting instructions but only written and a bit short so if it is your fist dress making project it might not be enough to properly fit the bodice, skirt and sleeves that the first dress in the book have. I think it might be better to start with a sleeveless dress for the first one but that is my personal preference.
Conclusion It is directed to a beginner but the last patterns in the book the Delphine skirt, Megan dress, Mimi Blouse and Lilou dress are personal and beautiful patterns with a sensation of mixed vintage that I love. All patterns have variations so you can been inspired to modify and see how colour-blocking effects the style and make it more personal. I think this book is beautifully photographed (a bit heavy of the makeup but you can clearly see the garments and the techniques shown) the patterns are cute and can be used as beautiful patterns for the more experienced sewer or as an introduction to sewing by a novice. This is something to give to a friend or a young woman that is starting to show interest in garment sewing or to treat yourself to a beautiful book filed with inspiration and a few patterns.
I didn’t get a photo of the toile but there was way too little fabric in the shoulder area and the neckline was flying high because of to deep shoulder slope, the sleeves were tight and the armholes too, so I slashed straight down from the necks seam line to mid sleeve and measured the gap to 4 cm at the shoulder, pinned it back together and then slashed straight over the chest and in to the sleeve, to see how much the armhole should be lowered and measured it to 1 cm.
expanding the yoke 4cm in my case
expanding the facing with the same angle at the same place.
and the collar but more evenly
lowering the bottom of armhole 1cm
Widening sleeve and lifting the top of sleeve cap 1cm.
When you are making changes it is also important to smooth all lines so the patterns maintains its character and the changes are invisible except for the fact that it now fits much better. You will also have to replace all marking as most of them have moved and won’t match anymore.
I have made a lot of changes and truth be told I can’t remember them all. The fit is much better then with the orange pair but still not perfect, for some reason I can’t fit the waist band properly both of them have a centimeter or two too large waistband even if the muslin fit snuggly which is annoying since they have a tendency to slide down. I made the inside of the waistband in a contrasting geometric light gray quilting cotton witch is really nice and along with interfacing on both lining and shell fabric the waistband is stable with prevent the linen from stretching out of shape.
I had a feeling that I should strained the waistband, the teacher and I had different ways to do that and wanting to learn new thing I went with her way with is the reason for the bagginess in the front sadly it wasn’t a very good way, I think she is better at making her own patterns then fitting others without having to change everything. This is from the series of sewing workshops I attended this spring, it still was a nice experience sewing with others since I’m usually creating on my own, not knowing many people as obsessed in textile craftsmanship as I.
But see the crutch seam is pretty perfect don’t you think?
It’s a beautiful film desplaying the importens of equal rights for men and woman as well as within the society structure. I watched it a few time first for the story and then for the costumes. There are beautiful details hidden every where, a beautiful brooch, lots of amazing hats and coats.