Loki

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Loki sweater in size 2 years, knitted in Filcolana peruvian highland wool in the colourways 281 (blue), 101 (white), 254 (apricot)

loki

Loki sweater in size 6 years, knitted in Filcolana peruvian highland wool in the colourways 190 (green), 101 (white), 254 (apricot)

Loki

Loki doesn’t have any neck shaping so I added a couple of short rows below the yoke and one above the yoke for the green. It a fun and quick knit and the yarn is wonderful to work with. Filcolana peruvian highland wool is squishy and soft for normal wool but not super soft it still is a little scratchy but still soft enough for most children I think and it works really well for colourwork having just enough grip to keep the stitches in place. I’m thinking of making a yoked sweater for me to in this, I like the idea of sweaters but the ease of taking on and of cardigans without making to much of a fuss in classes or on a packed bus, so we’ll see what becomes of it. As of my blouse fever I’m knitting a blouse and have ordered yarn for another one, on the needles and almost finished is Amélie by Gudrun Johnston in the amazing yarn Canopy Fingering by The Fiber Co. as called for, it is super soft slightly drapey but not overly so and semi variated witch gives depth to the colour. and soon to be started is Waterlily from Pom pom issue 8 as long as the yarn I ordered works. So hopefully I will be wearing a lot of skirts, blouses and jumpers this winter. 

I’m so glad to be knitting again and to have the inspiration back after 6 months.

Mimi blouse + book review of Love at First Stitch

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This is my first project from Love at first stitch by Tilly and the buttons that I got for my birthday. I had to make a broad shoulder expansion (see here) in order to get in to it but the result is a beautiful, airy and very comfortable blouse. I used nani IRO double gauze cotton fabric, which is amazing by the way. The buttons are 11 mm self covered buttons it the same fabric.

This pattern was the biggest reason that I wanted this book it’s just a perfect blouse. The pattern in the fabric doesn’t work as well as I thought for this blouse but it is still a lovely blouse and there will be more of them. I love this yoke, it is similar to the yoke in Brigitte by République du Chiffon that I’m working on (or it’s waiting for a coordinating zipper) it very feminine and airy so it works well on hot summer days which we currently have today it is supposed to be 29 celsius.

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Book review of Love at first stitch by Tilly Walens

The book have very clear step by step photo tutorials for all techniques used and is easy to use, the projects are organized so that is you start on page one and then work your way through the book you can start as a beginner and learn a little at the time and master technique after technique until the 2 final project the Mimi blouse with collar, bias binding, neck facing, button holes and pleats and the Lilou dress with lined, under lined, fitted bodice and pleated skirt. All the patterns are intended for woven fabric.

Pro’s
Easy to follow instruction to a few beautiful patterns and clear photography.

Cons
There are fitting instructions but only written and a bit short so if it is your fist dress making project it might not be enough to properly fit the bodice, skirt and sleeves that the first dress in the book have. I think it might be better to start with a sleeveless dress for the first one but that is my personal preference.

Conclusion
It is directed to a beginner but the last patterns in the book the Delphine skirt, Megan dress, Mimi Blouse and Lilou dress are personal and beautiful patterns with a sensation of mixed vintage that I love. All patterns have variations so you can been inspired to modify and see how colour-blocking effects the style and make it more personal. I think this book is beautifully photographed (a bit heavy of the makeup but you can clearly see the garments and the techniques shown) the patterns are cute and can be used as beautiful patterns for the more experienced sewer or as an introduction to sewing by a novice. This is something to give to a friend or a young woman that is starting to show interest in garment sewing or to treat yourself to a beautiful book filed with inspiration and a few patterns.

Fitting yoked blouse | Broad shoulder expansion , lowered underarm and widened sleeves

I didn’t get a photo of the toile but there was way too little fabric in the shoulder area and the neckline was flying high because of to deep shoulder slope, the sleeves were tight and the armholes too, so I slashed straight down from the necks seam line to mid sleeve and measured the gap to 4 cm at the shoulder, pinned it back together and then slashed straight over the chest and in to the sleeve, to see how much the armhole should be lowered and measured it to 1 cm.

Mimi blouse

expanding the yoke 4cm in my case

Mimi blouse

expanding the facing with the same angle at the same place.

Mimi blouse

and the collar but more evenly

Mimi blouse

lowering the bottom of armhole 1cm

Mimi blouse

 

Widening sleeve and lifting the top of sleeve cap 1cm.

When you are making changes it is also important to smooth all lines so the patterns maintains its character and the changes are invisible except for the fact that it now fits much better. You will also have to replace all marking as most of them have moved and won’t match anymore.

After these changes it fit perfectly,

Mimi blouse

This is Mimi blouse with all details here.

Chataigne Shorts – take two

Chataigne Shorts Banksia

Blue linen Chataigne Shorts, pattern from Deer and Doe, modeled with Banksia.

I have made a lot of changes and truth be told I can’t remember them all. The fit is much better then with the orange pair but still not perfect, for some reason I can’t fit the waist band properly both of them have a centimeter or two too large waistband even if the muslin fit snuggly which is annoying since they have a tendency to slide down. I made the inside of the waistband in a contrasting geometric light gray quilting cotton witch is really nice and along with interfacing on both lining and shell fabric the waistband is stable with prevent the linen from stretching out of shape.

I had a feeling that I should strained the waistband, the teacher and I had different ways to do that and wanting to learn new thing I went with her way with is the reason for the bagginess in the front sadly it wasn’t a very good way, I think she is better at making her own patterns then fitting others without having to change everything. This is from the series of sewing workshops I attended this spring, it still was a nice experience sewing with others since I’m usually creating on my own, not knowing many people as obsessed in textile craftsmanship as I.

Chataigne Shorts Banksia

But see the crutch seam is pretty perfect don’t you think?

Inspiration in movies

South Riding a 30′s Head mistress in a small town girls school.

South riding

This cute silk shorts and camisole night sett in pail pink with white lace.

South riding

Colourd with white collar.

South riding

blue with white neckband and straps

South riding

amazing green coat

South riding

this  looks like Kate Davies Ursula Cardigan

South riding

Lace + beautiful buttoned blouse

South riding

It’s a beautiful film desplaying the importens of equal rights for men and woman as well as within the society structure. I watched it a few time first for the story and then for the costumes. There are beautiful details hidden every where, a beautiful brooch, lots of amazing hats and coats.

Bletchley circle early 50′s in London

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That collar and tiny rows of lace

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inspiration

It about woman that during the war worked with decryption and analyzing that start solving crimes the police can’t handle correctly.

Doctor How

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Mr SelfridgeScreen Shot 2014-04-10 at 7.43.05 PM

I can’t remember the name of this one but the blouse.

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Madmen 60′s PR office

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Picnik collage1  images-7  betty-pink22-217x300 Madmen docksjö inspirationimages-3Peggy-Tie-Neck-Blouse-300x203

mad-man-joan-hollowayScreen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.44.26 PMbel-jolie-lipstick  Screen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.53.02 PM Screen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.51.43 PM Screen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.48.44 PM  Screen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.41.21 PM Chiffon raglan short dress amazing.

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Breathless 60′a hospital drama

Breathless

 

Would int it be nice to have a caplet like this, something to trow over whatever you’r wearing.

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Summer shirt

Wee shirt Wee shirt

An other tiny shirt made the same way as the last one from a secondhand bought curtain the scraps from this dress that sadly doesn’t live anymore. The tiny wooden button comes from Tummelisa.

Är du intresserad Karin?
Det är samma storlek som den förra och om den fortfarande är ok efteråt så vill jag gärna ha till baka den, har lite svårt att släppa taget om den här men den är ju till för att användas inte bara ligga i en låda här.

Veste Bernadette

Veste Bernadette

I made this cute little jacket I thought it would be a nice classy cardigan but it really is a jacket with perfect pleated silk lining and everything. The funny thing with silk lining is that the lining actually cost more then the shell-fabric which is a very inexpensive cotton corduroy I found when I was looking for trouser fabric. However I completely lost my mind when shopping and forgot that corduroy has direction and didn’t buy enough for a full length pair so I made this instead. The pattern is Veste Bernadette by Republique du Chiffon, she have a lot of beautiful designs and the only problem is that it’s in French and I don’t speak French even if a Canadian friend of mine tried to teach me over a summer in France 5 years ago, she’s really nice but the French didn’t stick. Not having sewn a jacket the proper way before and not understanding the directions I had a little trouble but after a few hours searching for a photo tutorial I found this very detailed one by republique du chiffon it’s in French and for one of her other patterns but has a lot of photos and I managed to get it all together in the end. The result is the most professional looking jacket I ever had, it’s just perfect, the lining in contrast silk and the back pleat on the inside. I didn’t add the label that comes with the pattern because I couldn’t decide if the look of the label would make up for the itchiness in the neck, so I told myself that there will be more and I could always add it to the next one.

Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette

The pattern do not call for interfacing the facings, I was sceptical but it turned out well, the one thing I wish I didn’t do was under stitching the hem, it stretched out and flare out a bit but I think it look all right this way too. It did make the fold line sharper but it’s not worth the stretching for the next or I should have used the waking foot to prevent this from happening.

Veste Bernadette

I had an issue in the back while fitting and took it in in the back seam from mid scapula and downward which solved the issue and removed the wrinkles under the arms in the back.

I’m thinking about making version in wool crepe with more drape. I have a little black wool crepe lying around that I’m afraid of cutting in it until I have the perfect fit of the perfect pattern since it’s so expensive even if it was a Christmas gift, that I got along with the lining used for this jacket. I have enough lining left for one more so there could be one black in wool with pink silk lining.

Veste Bernadette

See the cute pocket I added, one on each side to put keys and card on busy days in school + it’s always good to have a pocket or two.

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The only part I didn’t quite understand in the tutorial was the lining of the sleeve so I photographed it so you can see how it’s done, if you like me and never have sewn in a jacket lining properly before.

1 . leave a gap in the sleeve lining close to the cap transfer the shell fabric trough.

Veste Bernadette

2. turn the lining inside out.

Veste Bernadette

3. pin them together and sew all around.

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4. take it all back inside, it should look like this.

Veste Bernadette

5. sew the gap back together, I used back stitches, it’s important not to catch the shell-fabric.

Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette

Plantain yellow sky dress

A lengthening of the Plantain t-shirt by Deer and Doe in a cute yellow cloud cotton Lycra jersey. I made the neckline a little smaller by shortening the the neckband a few centimetres and sewing with a smaller seam allowance. I used about 1.2 meters and it took just over an hour at slow pace. This will be a new and well needed nightgown or sloping around at home dress.

Plantian dress yellow Plantian dress yellow Plantian dress yellow

50′s inspired birthday party

Inbjuning 50-tals fest blur

As both of us turned 25 a few weeks ago and wanted a  celebration of some sort preferably with a fun theme, my sister in law had the brilliant idea to make it in 50′s style, and so we did. I was and wonderful day yesterday with the first one arriving at 12 and the last one leaving at midnight. We where in my mothers house since we live 3 stairs up without a lift and some of the guests have trouble walking. I made 3 long paper pentanes that covered the siting-room and terrace with festive pastel colours and 2 tissue paper pompoms (did not manage to get them round and fluffy) in pearl pink and raspberry red. We had lots of home made ice-cream, cherries, strawberries and pizza for everyone and ended up playing a Gothenburg quiz that we got.

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The oldest was my grandmother 81 and the youngest my cousins son 7 weeks. Thank you for making this day special for us.

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  •  The beast vanilla Ice-cream Frozen custard by Posie get cosy
  • My Very Berry usually blueberry – frozen berries without seeds usually 500g blueberries 100g heavy cream and sugar to taste, mix everything together in a food processor and serve directly or into the ice cream machine and then the freezer. This has a very strong berry taste and is perfect as a disart to nice dinners or whenever you want something that only takes about 10 minutes to do. Currants and strawberries works, even if the strawberries need to be defrosted a bit before and then frozen agin in the machine.
  • Dark chocolate
  • Lingonberry