Waterlily

Waterlily-2

As you might have noticed there has been a change of style in my creations lately, that’s to say I have been making other stuff than dresses and cardigans, even shorts which is something I haven’t worn for years until this summer. Early spring I got a craving for beautiful blouses and what do you wear with blouses? Skirts or trousers and that how it all came about. After struggling to fit my first pair of shorts and, being me, wanted to continue making shorts until I had mastered it completely, continued making more. As I went on I realized that I really like sewing trousers or shorts which is what I have been making lately and that trousers don’t have to be uncomfortable or slide down when you sit down and there are more blouses that look better with trousers then they do with a skirt with the exception for a pencil skirt but they aren’t really comfortably nor easy to move around in. So I think this parade of separates might continue for some time.

waterlily-1

The latest in this is my knitted Waterlily top from the spring edition of Pompom this year, knitted in Sandnes Garn Alpakka/Silke. Here it is modeled with a wool panel skirt I made about 2 year ago, and I see now that it needs a bit of pressing but just ignore that please. I made a few modifications to the pattern in order to make it fit, firstly I added hip and waist shaping then I lengthened the body approximately 10cm. I also lengthened the yoke 3 cm below the braid and 2 cm in the lace section. The one thing I’m not perfectly pleased with it is the bind of in the back neck I made a few decreases to get it tight but it is still a bit floppy, I’m going to try and sew in a tiny thread of elastic to see it get better otherwise I will have to re do that part. This project made me realize that I don’t like to knit lace anymore, I think that a little bit of lace in a knitted garment makes it more professional and neater looking but I wish someone else would knit that part. That said I’m thinking of maybe making another one in turquoise or yellow, it so beautiful and comfortable and I think it will be great with a cardigan in the winter.

This outfit make me feel like I’d fit in the mini series The Bletchley circle taking part in London 1952.

Sorbetto

Sorbetto

Sorbetto by Colette, this is their free pattern, I made it out of an old sheet that I got from my grandmother a few years ago, it is well used so the top probably wont last for very long but still it is a very cute top. Here it is modeled with my Tania Culottes. The modifications I made was sewing and folding the bias-tape to the inside, grading out one size over the hips and lowering the bust dart about 2 cm.

Sorbetto

Size range: bust: 84-117cm
Sorbetto is very quick and simple to make and still elegant in the right fabric, the most difficult thing with this pattern is to choose a fabric that makes it that cute 60′s top that it is. I have a dusty mint viscose waiting to be a second one any day.

Sorbetto

Esther shorts

Inspired by Ada Spragg two piece set I bought the Esther shorts pattern and made my myself a pair the same night, to wear the next the for a day in the amusement park with my sister. The pattern fit perfectly on the first try after straightening the leg inseam as I always have to. I made them in a Vintage cotton canvas that use to be my grandmothers curtains in the late 60′s, 70′s.

Esther shorts  Esther shorts

The short have a high waist that is intended to hit the natural waist, for me it hits below the natural waist straight over my belly button but I like it better that way I used binding for the hem and in that way lengthened them a few cm to a more flattering length I think that gives an illusion of longer legs and together with the high waist still looks like you are wearing a reasonable amount of clothes (I really don’t like mini shorts or anything mini on adults). Highly recommend the Esther Shorts.

Size range:  Hip: 91-117cm Waist: 64-89cm

See that perfect pattern matching in the front seam.

Esther shorts  Esther shorts

I still have a problem with trousers stretching out of shape as I had before, they did really fit perfectly for half a day then getting soaked a few times they stretched out, hopefully they will shrink again in the wash.
But is there anything I can do about this?
Because it is getting frustrating to perfectly fit a pattern only to have a to large pair after use.

Running outfit

Running Coppelia Cardi Prefontaine Shorts

Finally some new running pieces, the top is Coppelia by Papercut patterns made in a light lace merino jersey that I have been saving since for almost a year for better skills in knitted fabric sewing as not to ruin it. It will be a perfect layering pice. The shorts are Prefontaine Shorts from Perfect Pattern Parcel 3 made in a Woven cotton stretch with the same merino jersey for the binding.

Running Coppelia Cardi Prefontaine Shorts Running Coppelia Cardi Prefontaine Shorts Running Coppelia Cardi Prefontaine Shorts

 

It has been too hot for test running the top but the shorts work just fine. I really like matching sets and wish my shoes were turquoise instead of blue but thats how it is.

DIY | Wrist Pincushion

Pincushion

It is easy and very quick to make your own, it takes about 30 minuets maximum 1h and all you need is listed below.

  • lid 5-6 cm in diameter for best result
  • fabric preferably drapy, durable and tightly woven
  • elastic for waistband
  • carded wool, the softer the better
  • soap for felting the wool
  • thread and sewing needle
  • ribbon for the side of lib, optional

Pincushion

Felt a soft ball of wool using soap it is so pose to be slightly larger that the lid and still soft to keep it light. Cover it with fabric by sew a gathering thread and gather evenly and secure.

Pincushion

Then cover the lid in the same way and secure.

Pincushion Pincushion Pincushion

Se if the fit is right

Pincushion

Sew on the elastic in between the lid and cushion in a length that fits around the wrist and keeps it still without being to tight. Sew the cushion ti the lid with invisible stitch.

Pincushion Pincushion Pincushion

Enjoy your new beautiful wrist pincushion, both of these a from my favorite scraps the flowery from this Washi and the dotted from my Mimi blouse both are cotton with can stand the constant poking that a pincushion gets and now I finally have one for my silk pins as well.

Loki

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Loki sweater in size 2 years, knitted in Filcolana peruvian highland wool in the colourways 281 (blue), 101 (white), 254 (apricot)

loki

Loki sweater in size 6 years, knitted in Filcolana peruvian highland wool in the colourways 190 (green), 101 (white), 254 (apricot)

Loki

Loki doesn’t have any neck shaping so I added a couple of short rows below the yoke and one above the yoke for the green. It a fun and quick knit and the yarn is wonderful to work with. Filcolana peruvian highland wool is squishy and soft for normal wool but not super soft it still is a little scratchy but still soft enough for most children I think and it works really well for colourwork having just enough grip to keep the stitches in place. I’m thinking of making a yoked sweater for me to in this, I like the idea of sweaters but the ease of taking on and of cardigans without making to much of a fuss in classes or on a packed bus, so we’ll see what becomes of it. As of my blouse fever I’m knitting a blouse and have ordered yarn for another one, on the needles and almost finished is Amélie by Gudrun Johnston in the amazing yarn Canopy Fingering by The Fiber Co. as called for, it is super soft slightly drapey but not overly so and semi variated witch gives depth to the colour. and soon to be started is Waterlily from Pom pom issue 8 as long as the yarn I ordered works. So hopefully I will be wearing a lot of skirts, blouses and jumpers this winter. 

I’m so glad to be knitting again and to have the inspiration back after 6 months.

Mimi blouse + book review of Love at First Stitch

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This is my first project from Love at first stitch by Tilly and the buttons that I got for my birthday. I had to make a broad shoulder expansion (see here) in order to get in to it but the result is a beautiful, airy and very comfortable blouse. I used nani IRO double gauze cotton fabric, which is amazing by the way. The buttons are 11 mm self covered buttons it the same fabric.

This pattern was the biggest reason that I wanted this book it’s just a perfect blouse. The pattern in the fabric doesn’t work as well as I thought for this blouse but it is still a lovely blouse and there will be more of them. I love this yoke, it is similar to the yoke in Brigitte by République du Chiffon that I’m working on (or it’s waiting for a coordinating zipper) it very feminine and airy so it works well on hot summer days which we currently have today it is supposed to be 29 celsius.

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Book review of Love at first stitch by Tilly Walens

The book have very clear step by step photo tutorials for all techniques used and is easy to use, the projects are organized so that is you start on page one and then work your way through the book you can start as a beginner and learn a little at the time and master technique after technique until the 2 final project the Mimi blouse with collar, bias binding, neck facing, button holes and pleats and the Lilou dress with lined, under lined, fitted bodice and pleated skirt. All the patterns are intended for woven fabric.

Pro’s
Easy to follow instruction to a few beautiful patterns and clear photography.

Size range: Bust: 76-112cm Waist: 61-96cm Hip: 84-119cm

Cons
There are fitting instructions but only written and a bit short so if it is your fist dress making project it might not be enough to properly fit the bodice, skirt and sleeves that the first dress in the book have. I think it might be better to start with a sleeveless dress for the first one but that is my personal preference.

Conclusion
It is directed to a beginner but the last patterns in the book the Delphine skirt, Megan dress, Mimi Blouse and Lilou dress are personal and beautiful patterns with a sensation of mixed vintage that I love. All patterns have variations so you can been inspired to modify and see how colour-blocking effects the style and make it more personal. I think this book is beautifully photographed (a bit heavy of the makeup but you can clearly see the garments and the techniques shown) the patterns are cute and can be used as beautiful patterns for the more experienced sewer or as an introduction to sewing by a novice. This is something to give to a friend or a young woman that is starting to show interest in garment sewing or to treat yourself to a beautiful book filed with inspiration and a few patterns.

Fitting yoked blouse | Broad shoulder expansion , lowered underarm and widened sleeves

I didn’t get a photo of the toile but there was way too little fabric in the shoulder area and the neckline was flying high because of to deep shoulder slope, the sleeves were tight and the armholes too, so I slashed straight down from the necks seam line to mid sleeve and measured the gap to 4 cm at the shoulder, pinned it back together and then slashed straight over the chest and in to the sleeve, to see how much the armhole should be lowered and measured it to 1 cm.

Mimi blouse

expanding the yoke 4cm in my case

Mimi blouse

expanding the facing with the same angle at the same place.

Mimi blouse

and the collar but more evenly

Mimi blouse

lowering the bottom of armhole 1cm

Mimi blouse

 

Widening sleeve and lifting the top of sleeve cap 1cm.

When you are making changes it is also important to smooth all lines so the patterns maintains its character and the changes are invisible except for the fact that it now fits much better. You will also have to replace all marking as most of them have moved and won’t match anymore.

After these changes it fit perfectly,

Mimi blouse

This is Mimi blouse with all details here.

Chataigne Shorts – take two

Chataigne Shorts Banksia

Blue linen Chataigne Shorts, pattern from Deer and Doe, modeled with Banksia.

I have made a lot of changes and truth be told I can’t remember them all. The fit is much better then with the orange pair but still not perfect, for some reason I can’t fit the waist band properly both of them have a centimeter or two too large waistband even if the muslin fit snuggly which is annoying since they have a tendency to slide down. I made the inside of the waistband in a contrasting geometric light gray quilting cotton witch is really nice and along with interfacing on both lining and shell fabric the waistband is stable with prevent the linen from stretching out of shape.

I had a feeling that I should strained the waistband, the teacher and I had different ways to do that and wanting to learn new thing I went with her way with is the reason for the bagginess in the front sadly it wasn’t a very good way, I think she is better at making her own patterns then fitting others without having to change everything. This is from the series of sewing workshops I attended this spring, it still was a nice experience sewing with others since I’m usually creating on my own, not knowing many people as obsessed in textile craftsmanship as I.

Chataigne Shorts Banksia

But see the crutch seam is pretty perfect don’t you think?

Inspiration in movies

South Riding a 30′s Head mistress in a small town girls school.

South riding

This cute silk shorts and camisole night sett in pail pink with white lace.

South riding

Colourd with white collar.

South riding

blue with white neckband and straps

South riding

amazing green coat

South riding

this  looks like Kate Davies Ursula Cardigan

South riding

Lace + beautiful buttoned blouse

South riding

It’s a beautiful film desplaying the importens of equal rights for men and woman as well as within the society structure. I watched it a few time first for the story and then for the costumes. There are beautiful details hidden every where, a beautiful brooch, lots of amazing hats and coats.

Bletchley circle early 50′s in London

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That collar and tiny rows of lace

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inspiration

It about woman that during the war worked with decryption and analyzing that start solving crimes the police can’t handle correctly.

Doctor How

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Mr SelfridgeScreen Shot 2014-04-10 at 7.43.05 PM

I can’t remember the name of this one but the blouse.

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Madmen 60′s PR office

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Picnik collage1  images-7  betty-pink22-217x300 Madmen docksjö inspirationimages-3Peggy-Tie-Neck-Blouse-300x203

mad-man-joan-hollowayScreen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.44.26 PMbel-jolie-lipstick  Screen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.53.02 PM Screen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.51.43 PM Screen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.48.44 PM  Screen Shot 2014-02-09 at 5.41.21 PM Chiffon raglan short dress amazing.

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Breathless 60′a hospital drama

Breathless

 

Would int it be nice to have a caplet like this, something to trow over whatever you’r wearing.

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