Tag Archives: couture

Bombshell dress

Bombshell dress bra

I made this dress for my cousins wedding in august but since I wasn’t completely pleased with the photos  and taking new ones have proven difficult. I took the Bombshell dress class on craftsy and used the accompanying pattern. The fabric is something I bought a long time ago and have dragged around with me through several relocations and finally it has now become something spectacular. It is silk taft in pale dusty pink with printed green to brown flowers on.

Bombshell dress braModifications: I lifted the over the cups area quite a bit and drafted my own skirt with pleats using all the width in the fabric and wished that it had been a little bit wider. I also made my own boned strapless bra to go with it.

I underlined the entire dress with a high quality thick cotton clot, (intended for the underdress in or national costume).

Bombshell dress bra

I also lined the bodice with a beautiful nan iro volie and sewed in a creme coloured waist-stay with a pearl button as closure. I also added horsehair braid to the hem to make it more structured instead of a petticoat which I think would only have been bulky to this type of skirt that doesn’t have much width.

Bombshell dress bra Bombshell dress bra Bombshell dress bra

Bombshell dress bra Bombshell dress bra  Bombshell dress bra Bombshell dress bra Bombshell dress bra Bombshell dress braBombshell dress bra

Mimi blouse + book review of Love at First Stitch

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This is my first project from Love at first stitch by Tilly and the buttons that I got for my birthday. I had to make a broad shoulder expansion (see here) in order to get in to it but the result is a beautiful, airy and very comfortable blouse. I used nani IRO double gauze cotton fabric, which is amazing by the way. The buttons are 11 mm self covered buttons it the same fabric.

This pattern was the biggest reason that I wanted this book it’s just a perfect blouse. The pattern in the fabric doesn’t work as well as I thought for this blouse but it is still a lovely blouse and there will be more of them. I love this yoke, it is similar to the yoke in Brigitte by République du Chiffon that I’m working on (or it’s waiting for a coordinating zipper) it very feminine and airy so it works well on hot summer days which we currently have today it is supposed to be 29 celsius.

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Book review of Love at first stitch by Tilly Walens

The book have very clear step by step photo tutorials for all techniques used and is easy to use, the projects are organized so that is you start on page one and then work your way through the book you can start as a beginner and learn a little at the time and master technique after technique until the 2 final project the Mimi blouse with collar, bias binding, neck facing, button holes and pleats and the Lilou dress with lined, under lined, fitted bodice and pleated skirt. All the patterns are intended for woven fabric.

Pro’s
Easy to follow instruction to a few beautiful patterns and clear photography.

Size range: Bust: 76-112cm Waist: 61-96cm Hip: 84-119cm

Cons
There are fitting instructions but only written and a bit short so if it is your fist dress making project it might not be enough to properly fit the bodice, skirt and sleeves that the first dress in the book have. I think it might be better to start with a sleeveless dress for the first one but that is my personal preference.

Conclusion
It is directed to a beginner but the last patterns in the book the Delphine skirt, Megan dress, Mimi Blouse and Lilou dress are personal and beautiful patterns with a sensation of mixed vintage that I love. All patterns have variations so you can been inspired to modify and see how colour-blocking effects the style and make it more personal. I think this book is beautifully photographed (a bit heavy of the makeup but you can clearly see the garments and the techniques shown) the patterns are cute and can be used as beautiful patterns for the more experienced sewer or as an introduction to sewing by a novice. This is something to give to a friend or a young woman that is starting to show interest in garment sewing or to treat yourself to a beautiful book filed with inspiration and a few patterns.

Fitting yoked blouse | Broad shoulder expansion , lowered underarm and widened sleeves

I didn’t get a photo of the toile but there was way too little fabric in the shoulder area and the neckline was flying high because of to deep shoulder slope, the sleeves were tight and the armholes too, so I slashed straight down from the necks seam line to mid sleeve and measured the gap to 4 cm at the shoulder, pinned it back together and then slashed straight over the chest and in to the sleeve, to see how much the armhole should be lowered and measured it to 1 cm.

Mimi blouse

expanding the yoke 4cm in my case

Mimi blouse

expanding the facing with the same angle at the same place.

Mimi blouse

and the collar but more evenly

Mimi blouse

lowering the bottom of armhole 1cm

Mimi blouse

 

Widening sleeve and lifting the top of sleeve cap 1cm.

When you are making changes it is also important to smooth all lines so the patterns maintains its character and the changes are invisible except for the fact that it now fits much better. You will also have to replace all marking as most of them have moved and won’t match anymore.

After these changes it fit perfectly,

Mimi blouse

This is Mimi blouse with all details here.