Tag Archives: sew

Fitting yoked blouse | Broad shoulder expansion , lowered underarm and widened sleeves

I didn’t get a photo of the toile but there was way too little fabric in the shoulder area and the neckline was flying high because of to deep shoulder slope, the sleeves were tight and the armholes too, so I slashed straight down from the necks seam line to mid sleeve and measured the gap to 4 cm at the shoulder, pinned it back together and then slashed straight over the chest and in to the sleeve, to see how much the armhole should be lowered and measured it to 1 cm.

Mimi blouse

expanding the yoke 4cm in my case

Mimi blouse

expanding the facing with the same angle at the same place.

Mimi blouse

and the collar but more evenly

Mimi blouse

lowering the bottom of armhole 1cm

Mimi blouse


Widening sleeve and lifting the top of sleeve cap 1cm.

When you are making changes it is also important to smooth all lines so the patterns maintains its character and the changes are invisible except for the fact that it now fits much better. You will also have to replace all marking as most of them have moved and won’t match anymore.

After these changes it fit perfectly,

Mimi blouse

This is Mimi blouse with all details here.

Tiny shirt

shirt tiny wee

I made this little shirt for Peters nephew’s (the little one in this blog) for his first birthday a couple of months ago and shipped it of before photographing it and I snapped this picture when we visited them a few weeks back. It’s made of 100% cotton, with plastic buttons to simplify washing. I used the basic woven top pattern in size 86 from Inger Öbergs book in pattern making for children’s wear and drafted it more shirt like and made the bottom flair out a little to make extra room to dipper bottoms.

Tania Culottes

Tanja clouset

Tania Culottes by Megan Nielsen made in a light cotton that my mom got for me.. These are my first pair and I had to do a lot of modifications due to the fact the pattern doesn’t come in my size. The fit isn’t perfect yet but absolutely wearable. They hit at a point were the slope between waist and hip is at it’s maximum for me and not in the waist as intended but I prefer the skirt to sit a little lower so thats not an issue. The only thing that is a problem is that I didn’t increase the slope or curve of the waistband enough so it’s gaping in the top of the waist band but tight in the bottom. This makes me want to pull in down more but that is not flattering at all and looks like I am wearing a to small skirt with bulging hips below the waist band, so as long as I don’t pull it down and have i blouse tucked in it works just fine. I will definitely fix this for the next one. I did also lengthen it as much as the fabric allowed, about 14 cm, but that was not enough, I still think that is too short. For the next one I need a lot of fabric 4 skirt lengths in fact. I used about 1.80 meter for this one  I think it’s almost 2 months since I made and photographed it. I only just realized that is had missed the blog when I was adding links for my linen pencil skirt and Belcarra Blouse

Tanja clouset

It’s a genius design and my fitting problem is only due to that I have 3 sizes smaller waist the hips, I love the feminine look that a circle skirt have but they aren’t the best when riding a bike in the the summer with bare legs. They have a tendency to slide up I don’t know how many times I have held down the skirt in one hand and trying to maneuver the bike with the other. But these are short and I will fix that problem since I love skirts and mostly bike where ever I’m going, especially in the summer when the buses are too hot of humans and overloaded by tourists. As soon as I find the appropriate fabric I will make more and longer versions of Tania Culottes.

Tanja clouset Tanja clouset


Green stripes

Hawthorn 2 green stripes

This is my second hawthorn, you can find the first here, it is made in a thin striped linen in the colour of spring. I modified the collar to make it wider and to make it lie flat (the original looked like airplane wings ), the skirt to a gathered one and drafted cap-sleeves. I had planed for dark brown wooden buttons but after searching 4 different notion/yarn/fabric shops, I gave in and went for turquoise pear one instead. If I ever find the perfect brown button I might have to change them, since it would give the entire dress the feeling a was going for, more of a rustic, swedish summer feeling.

It was windy and I had huge trouble with taking photos so after selecting the acceptable ones I only had photos of my backside which is weird.

Hawthorn 2 green stripes Hawthorn 2 green stripes Hawthorn 2 green stripes Hawthorn 2 green stripes Hawthorn 2 green stripes  Hawthorn 2 green stripes Cayley

Here you can see my Cayley with buttons, this has become my go-to sweater, blue, warm and comfortable. Hawthorn 2 green stripes

Next up sewing wise is a bow tied blouse that I have been working on. I really want a white silk bow tied blouse as well but have trouble locating some affordable fabric if you have any suggestions on where to find some “heavy”silk crepe or similar are welcome. An ivory lace bra, I bought a beautiful lace and some silk organza for it a few days ago, I am really excited to start that and it will probably be the next project I lay my hands on, it going to be so beautiful.

Circle skirt

circle skirt banksia top

This is a circle skirt made in linen, I bought some linen online in the beginning for the summer, believing that is was a thin nice shirt linen, but when it arrived here it was thick, scratchy and not nice at all. So in an attempt to use up all of my small fabric stash I made this skirt and it is quite nice and I have had a lot of use from it already. I don’t want to have a lot of fabric taking space and especially fabric that is unlikely to be used. and the Baniska top is much better tucked into a skirt.

circle skirt banksia top circle skirt banksia top circle skirt banksia top


Plantain t-shirts

When my favorite designer released this fabulous t-shirt for free I rushed to buy some fabric (or I thought I did) as it happens the online purchase never went through and I have been waiting and worrying about why it hadn’t arrived yet. As I was looking for all the purchase information so that I could ask the company why they hadn’t sent my package yet, only to realize that there was no purchase at all. After this I searched in my special storage for a special fabric and found some that was suitable. These are the first 2 of many more to come, the pattern is beautifully done and easy to follow. It has a few sleeve options and nice elbow paths if you like that.

First up, a thicker wintery sweater suitable for a snowy day like this (we got about 30 cm outside our window, love it) made in a cotton french teary, it is sturdy and excellent for this T. It feels great to wear and looks more professional because of its sturdiness.

Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt  Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt

And last, Merino double knit with a little elastane to make it rebound well. The fabric has a bird eye pattern with rose red and white even if the photos don’t show it very well. I have been saving this for some time until I found the perfect sweater pattern.

Plantain t-shirt

Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt Plantain t-shirt

Details: I lengthened the sleeves about 5cm and sewed the sleeves with only 3/8″ seam allowance instead of 5/8″ and left out the elbow paths, otherwise I followed the pattern precisely.

Kimono sleeve dress

Kimono Sleeve dress

This is Kimono sleeve dress from Salme Patterns, made in a flowy light rayon. I love it, the fit the colour and the cool and airy feel of it. My husband do not agree, he think it looks like an oversized t-shirt. I think it might be lovely to wear in the summer because of it’s airiness as well as it the winter with a slip underneath. I used french seems for the side and shoulder seems and rolled hem for the neckline and the hem. So what do you think, is it a nice dress or an awful oversized t-shirt that should never be worn?

Kimono Sleeve dress Kimono Sleeve dress Kimono Sleeve dress Kimono Sleeve dress Kimono Sleeve dress

Cinderella at the princes ball

cinderella dress

I feel a bit like Cinderella at the Princes ball when I’m wearing this. It is made in thai silk that my father bought for me a few years ago, the colour wasn’t great so I over-dyed the fabric before  I started cutting. This dress calls for a festive occasion, so it will probably be a visit to the Concert Hall soon. The pattern is my basic bodice with a width long gathered skirt and button up back.

cinderella dress cinderella dress cinderella dress

I need a petticoat for this but I didn’t think of it before I saw these pictures.