Tag Archives: Sewing

40’s bow dress

40's Bow dress

I bought this fabric when I was looking for some nice navy blue cotton poplin for a skirt. I didn’t find a nice weight of poplin but walked on this flowery fabric 100% cotton in a light, dense and almost drapey fabric perfect for a 40’s dress and very similar to the fabric on the patterns envelope. I think that the patterning of the fabric makes the beautiful details on the yoke disappear a little too much but it is certainly nice this way too. I used about 2.5 meters of a 112 cm wide cotton print, made the bodice and sleeves exactly as the pattern, but didn’t have enough fabric left for the 6 panel skirt I really wanted so I made a very pleated skirt with 15 pleats on the front and back all in all 30, pointing around in a circle. This is more of a skirt from the early 60’s or 20’s put together with a 40’s bodice and sleeves, but that’s the charm of making your own clothes, you have and opportunity to mix and match all you like.

40's Bow dress

The pattern is Simplicity 1587 a reprint from the 40’s it has an optional bow with I of course made and pleats surrounding it for the bust shaping. It is unlined and only have a neck facing, I didn’t think of a good way to add a lining because of the complex yoke which is a bit unfortunate for a winter dress. I will make another one in a plain fabric when I find something suitable, hoping for some nice wool suiting.

40's Bow dress   40's Bow dress

40's Bow dress  141207_4742

This is how happy I was about defying the weather to get these photos.

40's Bow dress 40's Bow dress

It was 4°C and pouring.

Black Velvet skirt

Delphine skirt

I was skirt planing when the first task in pattern review’s sewing bee contest arrived in the email, an A-line skirt, and as it happens I had already bought some black velvet the day before for exactly that purpose. So her it  is the perfect skirt that goes with almost everything.

Delphine skirt

I used about 1.2m 112cm wide cotton velvet, 1m viscose lining, a normal zipper and  scrapes of quilting cotton the the inside of the waistband, button on the inside to protect the zipper, as well as some light interfacing. The pattern is based on the Delphine skirt from Love at First Stitch but modified to give it the fit I like better. I lowered the waistband to sit over my high hip instead and reshaped the hips and added some waist shaping. The result is so comfortable that I don’t want to take it of and have already been wearing allot.

Delphine skirtDelphine skirt

Delphine skirt Delphine skirt Delphine skirt  Delphine skirt Delphine skirt

Knitting bag

Knitting bag

I used this tutorial by Pink Penguin, but put it together a little more traditionally and neater I think, but the end result is the same: a perfect bag for smaller projects. It wont hold an adult sized sweater but almost anything else. I got inspired to make one for me after seeing this version that Clara made and later that day when I was packing together stash yarn with needles, pattern and notions, ready to go. I didn’t have anything to put them in except shopping bags and we need our shopping bags for shopping. So I made this out of fabric scraps + a lot of interfacing.  I’m thinking of making a bigger one for sweater projects as that is what I knit most of the time and what I like most, but honestly I probably won’t get to it.

Knitting bag Knitting bag Knitting bag

Dusty mint

Is one of my favorite colours, it simply feels elegant that said I only own 2 items in this colour the shoes I wore on our wedding day and this new sorbetto. It is made in viscose and probably is the cheapest fabric for an entire project I ever bought, it was the end of the bolt and I got about half of the normal price and the shop owner asked me weather that little could ever become something, but here it is all used up.

Sorbetto mint Sorbetto mint

This will be perfect with a cardigan now that fall is coming. You can read more of the details in the post about my first sorbetto here. And now I wonder how you are preparing for the change of season?

Sorbetto

Sorbetto

Sorbetto by Colette, this is their free pattern, I made it out of an old sheet that I got from my grandmother a few years ago, it is well used so the top probably wont last for very long but still it is a very cute top. Here it is modeled with my Tania Culottes. The modifications I made was sewing and folding the bias-tape to the inside, grading out one size over the hips and lowering the bust dart about 2 cm.

Sorbetto

Size range: bust: 84-117cm
Sorbetto is very quick and simple to make and still elegant in the right fabric, the most difficult thing with this pattern is to choose a fabric that makes it that cute 60’s top that it is. I have a dusty mint viscose waiting to be a second one any day.

Sorbetto

Esther shorts

Inspired by Ada Spragg two piece set I bought the Esther shorts pattern and made my myself a pair the same night, to wear the next the for a day in the amusement park with my sister. The pattern fit perfectly on the first try after straightening the leg inseam as I always have to. I made them in a Vintage cotton canvas that use to be my grandmothers curtains in the late 60’s, 70’s.

Esther shorts  Esther shorts

The short have a high waist that is intended to hit the natural waist, for me it hits below the natural waist straight over my belly button but I like it better that way I used binding for the hem and in that way lengthened them a few cm to a more flattering length I think that gives an illusion of longer legs and together with the high waist still looks like you are wearing a reasonable amount of clothes (I really don’t like mini shorts or anything mini on adults). Highly recommend the Esther Shorts.

Size range:  Hip: 91-117cm Waist: 64-89cm

See that perfect pattern matching in the front seam.

Esther shorts  Esther shorts

I still have a problem with trousers stretching out of shape as I had before, they did really fit perfectly for half a day then getting soaked a few times they stretched out, hopefully they will shrink again in the wash.
But is there anything I can do about this?
Because it is getting frustrating to perfectly fit a pattern only to have a to large pair after use.

DIY | Wrist Pincushion

Pincushion

It is easy and very quick to make your own, it takes about 30 minuets maximum 1h and all you need is listed below.

  • lid 5-6 cm in diameter for best result
  • fabric preferably drapy, durable and tightly woven
  • elastic for waistband
  • carded wool, the softer the better
  • soap for felting the wool
  • thread and sewing needle
  • ribbon for the side of lib, optional

Pincushion

Felt a soft ball of wool using soap it is so pose to be slightly larger that the lid and still soft to keep it light. Cover it with fabric by sew a gathering thread and gather evenly and secure.

Pincushion

Then cover the lid in the same way and secure.

Pincushion Pincushion Pincushion

Se if the fit is right

Pincushion

Sew on the elastic in between the lid and cushion in a length that fits around the wrist and keeps it still without being to tight. Sew the cushion ti the lid with invisible stitch.

Pincushion Pincushion Pincushion

Enjoy your new beautiful wrist pincushion, both of these a from my favorite scraps the flowery from this Washi and the dotted from my Mimi blouse both are cotton with can stand the constant poking that a pincushion gets and now I finally have one for my silk pins as well.

Mimi blouse + book review of Love at First Stitch

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This is my first project from Love at first stitch by Tilly and the buttons that I got for my birthday. I had to make a broad shoulder expansion (see here) in order to get in to it but the result is a beautiful, airy and very comfortable blouse. I used nani IRO double gauze cotton fabric, which is amazing by the way. The buttons are 11 mm self covered buttons it the same fabric.

This pattern was the biggest reason that I wanted this book it’s just a perfect blouse. The pattern in the fabric doesn’t work as well as I thought for this blouse but it is still a lovely blouse and there will be more of them. I love this yoke, it is similar to the yoke in Brigitte by République du Chiffon that I’m working on (or it’s waiting for a coordinating zipper) it very feminine and airy so it works well on hot summer days which we currently have today it is supposed to be 29 celsius.

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Book review of Love at first stitch by Tilly Walens

The book have very clear step by step photo tutorials for all techniques used and is easy to use, the projects are organized so that is you start on page one and then work your way through the book you can start as a beginner and learn a little at the time and master technique after technique until the 2 final project the Mimi blouse with collar, bias binding, neck facing, button holes and pleats and the Lilou dress with lined, under lined, fitted bodice and pleated skirt. All the patterns are intended for woven fabric.

Pro’s
Easy to follow instruction to a few beautiful patterns and clear photography.

Size range: Bust: 76-112cm Waist: 61-96cm Hip: 84-119cm

Cons
There are fitting instructions but only written and a bit short so if it is your fist dress making project it might not be enough to properly fit the bodice, skirt and sleeves that the first dress in the book have. I think it might be better to start with a sleeveless dress for the first one but that is my personal preference.

Conclusion
It is directed to a beginner but the last patterns in the book the Delphine skirt, Megan dress, Mimi Blouse and Lilou dress are personal and beautiful patterns with a sensation of mixed vintage that I love. All patterns have variations so you can been inspired to modify and see how colour-blocking effects the style and make it more personal. I think this book is beautifully photographed (a bit heavy of the makeup but you can clearly see the garments and the techniques shown) the patterns are cute and can be used as beautiful patterns for the more experienced sewer or as an introduction to sewing by a novice. This is something to give to a friend or a young woman that is starting to show interest in garment sewing or to treat yourself to a beautiful book filed with inspiration and a few patterns.