I made this cute little jacket I thought it would be a nice classy cardigan but it really is a jacket with perfect pleated silk lining and everything. The funny thing with silk lining is that the lining actually cost more then the shell-fabric which is a very inexpensive cotton corduroy I found when I was looking for trouser fabric. However I completely lost my mind when shopping and forgot that corduroy has direction and didn’t buy enough for a full length pair so I made this instead. The pattern is Veste Bernadette by Republique du Chiffon, she have a lot of beautiful designs and the only problem is that it’s in French and I don’t speak French even if a Canadian friend of mine tried to teach me over a summer in France 5 years ago, she’s really nice but the French didn’t stick. Not having sewn a jacket the proper way before and not understanding the directions I had a little trouble but after a few hours searching for a photo tutorial I found this very detailed one by republique du chiffon it’s in French and for one of her other patterns but has a lot of photos and I managed to get it all together in the end. The result is the most professional looking jacket I ever had, it’s just perfect, the lining in contrast silk and the back pleat on the inside. I didn’t add the label that comes with the pattern because I couldn’t decide if the look of the label would make up for the itchiness in the neck, so I told myself that there will be more and I could always add it to the next one.
The pattern do not call for interfacing the facings, I was sceptical but it turned out well, the one thing I wish I didn’t do was under stitching the hem, it stretched out and flare out a bit but I think it look all right this way too. It did make the fold line sharper but it’s not worth the stretching for the next or I should have used the waking foot to prevent this from happening.
I had an issue in the back while fitting and took it in in the back seam from mid scapula and downward which solved the issue and removed the wrinkles under the arms in the back.
I’m thinking about making version in wool crepe with more drape. I have a little black wool crepe lying around that I’m afraid of cutting in it until I have the perfect fit of the perfect pattern since it’s so expensive even if it was a Christmas gift, that I got along with the lining used for this jacket. I have enough lining left for one more so there could be one black in wool with pink silk lining.
See the cute pocket I added, one on each side to put keys and card on busy days in school + it’s always good to have a pocket or two.
The only part I didn’t quite understand in the tutorial was the lining of the sleeve so I photographed it so you can see how it’s done, if you like me and never have sewn in a jacket lining properly before.
1 . leave a gap in the sleeve lining close to the cap transfer the shell fabric trough.
2. turn the lining inside out.
3. pin them together and sew all around.
4. take it all back inside, it should look like this.
5. sew the gap back together, I used back stitches, it’s important not to catch the shell-fabric.