Category Archives: Sewing

Sorbetto

Sorbetto

Sorbetto by Colette, this is their free pattern, I made it out of an old sheet that I got from my grandmother a few years ago, it is well used so the top probably wont last for very long but still it is a very cute top. Here it is modeled with my Tania Culottes. The modifications I made was sewing and folding the bias-tape to the inside, grading out one size over the hips and lowering the bust dart about 2 cm.

Sorbetto

Size range: bust: 84-117cm
Sorbetto is very quick and simple to make and still elegant in the right fabric, the most difficult thing with this pattern is to choose a fabric that makes it that cute 60’s top that it is. I have a dusty mint viscose waiting to be a second one any day.

Sorbetto

Esther shorts

Inspired by Ada Spragg two piece set I bought the Esther shorts pattern and made my myself a pair the same night, to wear the next the for a day in the amusement park with my sister. The pattern fit perfectly on the first try after straightening the leg inseam as I always have to. I made them in a Vintage cotton canvas that use to be my grandmothers curtains in the late 60’s, 70’s.

Esther shorts  Esther shorts

The short have a high waist that is intended to hit the natural waist, for me it hits below the natural waist straight over my belly button but I like it better that way I used binding for the hem and in that way lengthened them a few cm to a more flattering length I think that gives an illusion of longer legs and together with the high waist still looks like you are wearing a reasonable amount of clothes (I really don’t like mini shorts or anything mini on adults). Highly recommend the Esther Shorts.

Size range:  Hip: 91-117cm Waist: 64-89cm

See that perfect pattern matching in the front seam.

Esther shorts  Esther shorts

I still have a problem with trousers stretching out of shape as I had before, they did really fit perfectly for half a day then getting soaked a few times they stretched out, hopefully they will shrink again in the wash.
But is there anything I can do about this?
Because it is getting frustrating to perfectly fit a pattern only to have a to large pair after use.

Running outfit

Running Coppelia Cardi Prefontaine Shorts

Finally some new running pieces, the top is Coppelia by Papercut patterns made in a light lace merino jersey that I have been saving since for almost a year for better skills in knitted fabric sewing as not to ruin it. It will be a perfect layering pice. The shorts are Prefontaine Shorts from Perfect Pattern Parcel 3 made in a Woven cotton stretch with the same merino jersey for the binding.

Running Coppelia Cardi Prefontaine Shorts Running Coppelia Cardi Prefontaine Shorts Running Coppelia Cardi Prefontaine Shorts

 

It has been too hot for test running the top but the shorts work just fine. I really like matching sets and wish my shoes were turquoise instead of blue but thats how it is.

DIY | Wrist Pincushion

Pincushion

It is easy and very quick to make your own, it takes about 30 minuets maximum 1h and all you need is listed below.

  • lid 5-6 cm in diameter for best result
  • fabric preferably drapy, durable and tightly woven
  • elastic for waistband
  • carded wool, the softer the better
  • soap for felting the wool
  • thread and sewing needle
  • ribbon for the side of lib, optional

Pincushion

Felt a soft ball of wool using soap it is so pose to be slightly larger that the lid and still soft to keep it light. Cover it with fabric by sew a gathering thread and gather evenly and secure.

Pincushion

Then cover the lid in the same way and secure.

Pincushion Pincushion Pincushion

Se if the fit is right

Pincushion

Sew on the elastic in between the lid and cushion in a length that fits around the wrist and keeps it still without being to tight. Sew the cushion ti the lid with invisible stitch.

Pincushion Pincushion Pincushion

Enjoy your new beautiful wrist pincushion, both of these a from my favorite scraps the flowery from this Washi and the dotted from my Mimi blouse both are cotton with can stand the constant poking that a pincushion gets and now I finally have one for my silk pins as well.

Mimi blouse + book review of Love at First Stitch

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This is my first project from Love at first stitch by Tilly and the buttons that I got for my birthday. I had to make a broad shoulder expansion (see here) in order to get in to it but the result is a beautiful, airy and very comfortable blouse. I used nani IRO double gauze cotton fabric, which is amazing by the way. The buttons are 11 mm self covered buttons it the same fabric.

This pattern was the biggest reason that I wanted this book it’s just a perfect blouse. The pattern in the fabric doesn’t work as well as I thought for this blouse but it is still a lovely blouse and there will be more of them. I love this yoke, it is similar to the yoke in Brigitte by République du Chiffon that I’m working on (or it’s waiting for a coordinating zipper) it very feminine and airy so it works well on hot summer days which we currently have today it is supposed to be 29 celsius.

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Book review of Love at first stitch by Tilly Walens

The book have very clear step by step photo tutorials for all techniques used and is easy to use, the projects are organized so that is you start on page one and then work your way through the book you can start as a beginner and learn a little at the time and master technique after technique until the 2 final project the Mimi blouse with collar, bias binding, neck facing, button holes and pleats and the Lilou dress with lined, under lined, fitted bodice and pleated skirt. All the patterns are intended for woven fabric.

Pro’s
Easy to follow instruction to a few beautiful patterns and clear photography.

Size range: Bust: 76-112cm Waist: 61-96cm Hip: 84-119cm

Cons
There are fitting instructions but only written and a bit short so if it is your fist dress making project it might not be enough to properly fit the bodice, skirt and sleeves that the first dress in the book have. I think it might be better to start with a sleeveless dress for the first one but that is my personal preference.

Conclusion
It is directed to a beginner but the last patterns in the book the Delphine skirt, Megan dress, Mimi Blouse and Lilou dress are personal and beautiful patterns with a sensation of mixed vintage that I love. All patterns have variations so you can been inspired to modify and see how colour-blocking effects the style and make it more personal. I think this book is beautifully photographed (a bit heavy of the makeup but you can clearly see the garments and the techniques shown) the patterns are cute and can be used as beautiful patterns for the more experienced sewer or as an introduction to sewing by a novice. This is something to give to a friend or a young woman that is starting to show interest in garment sewing or to treat yourself to a beautiful book filed with inspiration and a few patterns.

Fitting yoked blouse | Broad shoulder expansion , lowered underarm and widened sleeves

I didn’t get a photo of the toile but there was way too little fabric in the shoulder area and the neckline was flying high because of to deep shoulder slope, the sleeves were tight and the armholes too, so I slashed straight down from the necks seam line to mid sleeve and measured the gap to 4 cm at the shoulder, pinned it back together and then slashed straight over the chest and in to the sleeve, to see how much the armhole should be lowered and measured it to 1 cm.

Mimi blouse

expanding the yoke 4cm in my case

Mimi blouse

expanding the facing with the same angle at the same place.

Mimi blouse

and the collar but more evenly

Mimi blouse

lowering the bottom of armhole 1cm

Mimi blouse

 

Widening sleeve and lifting the top of sleeve cap 1cm.

When you are making changes it is also important to smooth all lines so the patterns maintains its character and the changes are invisible except for the fact that it now fits much better. You will also have to replace all marking as most of them have moved and won’t match anymore.

After these changes it fit perfectly,

Mimi blouse

This is Mimi blouse with all details here.

Chataigne Shorts – take two

Chataigne Shorts Banksia

Blue linen Chataigne Shorts, pattern from Deer and Doe, modeled with Banksia.

I have made a lot of changes and truth be told I can’t remember them all. The fit is much better then with the orange pair but still not perfect, for some reason I can’t fit the waist band properly both of them have a centimeter or two too large waistband even if the muslin fit snuggly which is annoying since they have a tendency to slide down. I made the inside of the waistband in a contrasting geometric light gray quilting cotton witch is really nice and along with interfacing on both lining and shell fabric the waistband is stable with prevent the linen from stretching out of shape.

I had a feeling that I should strained the waistband, the teacher and I had different ways to do that and wanting to learn new thing I went with her way with is the reason for the bagginess in the front sadly it wasn’t a very good way, I think she is better at making her own patterns then fitting others without having to change everything. This is from the series of sewing workshops I attended this spring, it still was a nice experience sewing with others since I’m usually creating on my own, not knowing many people as obsessed in textile craftsmanship as I.

Chataigne Shorts Banksia

But see the crutch seam is pretty perfect don’t you think?

Summer shirt

Wee shirt Wee shirt

An other tiny shirt made the same way as the last one from a secondhand bought curtain the scraps from this dress that sadly doesn’t live anymore. The tiny wooden button comes from Tummelisa.

Är du intresserad Karin?
Det är samma storlek som den förra och om den fortfarande är ok efteråt så vill jag gärna ha till baka den, har lite svårt att släppa taget om den här men den är ju till för att användas inte bara ligga i en låda här.

Veste Bernadette

Veste Bernadette

I made this cute little jacket I thought it would be a nice classy cardigan but it really is a jacket with perfect pleated silk lining and everything. The funny thing with silk lining is that the lining actually cost more then the shell-fabric which is a very inexpensive cotton corduroy I found when I was looking for trouser fabric. However I completely lost my mind when shopping and forgot that corduroy has direction and didn’t buy enough for a full length pair so I made this instead. The pattern is Veste Bernadette by Republique du Chiffon, she have a lot of beautiful designs and the only problem is that it’s in French and I don’t speak French even if a Canadian friend of mine tried to teach me over a summer in France 5 years ago, she’s really nice but the French didn’t stick. Not having sewn a jacket the proper way before and not understanding the directions I had a little trouble but after a few hours searching for a photo tutorial I found this very detailed one by republique du chiffon it’s in French and for one of her other patterns but has a lot of photos and I managed to get it all together in the end. The result is the most professional looking jacket I ever had, it’s just perfect, the lining in contrast silk and the back pleat on the inside. I didn’t add the label that comes with the pattern because I couldn’t decide if the look of the label would make up for the itchiness in the neck, so I told myself that there will be more and I could always add it to the next one.

Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette

The pattern do not call for interfacing the facings, I was sceptical but it turned out well, the one thing I wish I didn’t do was under stitching the hem, it stretched out and flare out a bit but I think it look all right this way too. It did make the fold line sharper but it’s not worth the stretching for the next or I should have used the waking foot to prevent this from happening.

Veste Bernadette

I had an issue in the back while fitting and took it in in the back seam from mid scapula and downward which solved the issue and removed the wrinkles under the arms in the back.

I’m thinking about making version in wool crepe with more drape. I have a little black wool crepe lying around that I’m afraid of cutting in it until I have the perfect fit of the perfect pattern since it’s so expensive even if it was a Christmas gift, that I got along with the lining used for this jacket. I have enough lining left for one more so there could be one black in wool with pink silk lining.

Veste Bernadette

See the cute pocket I added, one on each side to put keys and card on busy days in school + it’s always good to have a pocket or two.

Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette

The only part I didn’t quite understand in the tutorial was the lining of the sleeve so I photographed it so you can see how it’s done, if you like me and never have sewn in a jacket lining properly before.

1 . leave a gap in the sleeve lining close to the cap transfer the shell fabric trough.

Veste Bernadette

2. turn the lining inside out.

Veste Bernadette

3. pin them together and sew all around.

Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette

4. take it all back inside, it should look like this.

Veste Bernadette

5. sew the gap back together, I used back stitches, it’s important not to catch the shell-fabric.

Veste Bernadette Veste Bernadette