Tag Archives: Sewing

DIY | Wrist Pincushion

Pincushion

It is easy and very quick to make your own, it takes about 30 minuets maximum 1h and all you need is listed below.

  • lid 5-6 cm in diameter for best result
  • fabric preferably drapy, durable and tightly woven
  • elastic for waistband
  • carded wool, the softer the better
  • soap for felting the wool
  • thread and sewing needle
  • ribbon for the side of lib, optional

Pincushion

Felt a soft ball of wool using soap it is so pose to be slightly larger that the lid and still soft to keep it light. Cover it with fabric by sew a gathering thread and gather evenly and secure.

Pincushion

Then cover the lid in the same way and secure.

Pincushion Pincushion Pincushion

Se if the fit is right

Pincushion

Sew on the elastic in between the lid and cushion in a length that fits around the wrist and keeps it still without being to tight. Sew the cushion ti the lid with invisible stitch.

Pincushion Pincushion Pincushion

Enjoy your new beautiful wrist pincushion, both of these a from my favorite scraps the flowery from this Washi and the dotted from my Mimi blouse both are cotton with can stand the constant poking that a pincushion gets and now I finally have one for my silk pins as well.

Mimi blouse + book review of Love at First Stitch

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This is my first project from Love at first stitch by Tilly and the buttons that I got for my birthday. I had to make a broad shoulder expansion (see here) in order to get in to it but the result is a beautiful, airy and very comfortable blouse. I used nani IRO double gauze cotton fabric, which is amazing by the way. The buttons are 11 mm self covered buttons it the same fabric.

This pattern was the biggest reason that I wanted this book it’s just a perfect blouse. The pattern in the fabric doesn’t work as well as I thought for this blouse but it is still a lovely blouse and there will be more of them. I love this yoke, it is similar to the yoke in Brigitte by République du Chiffon that I’m working on (or it’s waiting for a coordinating zipper) it very feminine and airy so it works well on hot summer days which we currently have today it is supposed to be 29 celsius.

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Book review of Love at first stitch by Tilly Walens

The book have very clear step by step photo tutorials for all techniques used and is easy to use, the projects are organized so that is you start on page one and then work your way through the book you can start as a beginner and learn a little at the time and master technique after technique until the 2 final project the Mimi blouse with collar, bias binding, neck facing, button holes and pleats and the Lilou dress with lined, under lined, fitted bodice and pleated skirt. All the patterns are intended for woven fabric.

Pro’s
Easy to follow instruction to a few beautiful patterns and clear photography.

Size range: Bust: 76-112cm Waist: 61-96cm Hip: 84-119cm

Cons
There are fitting instructions but only written and a bit short so if it is your fist dress making project it might not be enough to properly fit the bodice, skirt and sleeves that the first dress in the book have. I think it might be better to start with a sleeveless dress for the first one but that is my personal preference.

Conclusion
It is directed to a beginner but the last patterns in the book the Delphine skirt, Megan dress, Mimi Blouse and Lilou dress are personal and beautiful patterns with a sensation of mixed vintage that I love. All patterns have variations so you can been inspired to modify and see how colour-blocking effects the style and make it more personal. I think this book is beautifully photographed (a bit heavy of the makeup but you can clearly see the garments and the techniques shown) the patterns are cute and can be used as beautiful patterns for the more experienced sewer or as an introduction to sewing by a novice. This is something to give to a friend or a young woman that is starting to show interest in garment sewing or to treat yourself to a beautiful book filed with inspiration and a few patterns.

Fitting yoked blouse | Broad shoulder expansion , lowered underarm and widened sleeves

I didn’t get a photo of the toile but there was way too little fabric in the shoulder area and the neckline was flying high because of to deep shoulder slope, the sleeves were tight and the armholes too, so I slashed straight down from the necks seam line to mid sleeve and measured the gap to 4 cm at the shoulder, pinned it back together and then slashed straight over the chest and in to the sleeve, to see how much the armhole should be lowered and measured it to 1 cm.

Mimi blouse

expanding the yoke 4cm in my case

Mimi blouse

expanding the facing with the same angle at the same place.

Mimi blouse

and the collar but more evenly

Mimi blouse

lowering the bottom of armhole 1cm

Mimi blouse

 

Widening sleeve and lifting the top of sleeve cap 1cm.

When you are making changes it is also important to smooth all lines so the patterns maintains its character and the changes are invisible except for the fact that it now fits much better. You will also have to replace all marking as most of them have moved and won’t match anymore.

After these changes it fit perfectly,

Mimi blouse

This is Mimi blouse with all details here.

Tiny shirt

shirt tiny wee

I made this little shirt for Peters nephew’s (the little one in this blog) for his first birthday a couple of months ago and shipped it of before photographing it and I snapped this picture when we visited them a few weeks back. It’s made of 100% cotton, with plastic buttons to simplify washing. I used the basic woven top pattern in size 86 from Inger Öbergs book in pattern making for children’s wear and drafted it more shirt like and made the bottom flair out a little to make extra room to dipper bottoms.

Cream lace bra

140519_1854 kopia

This week challenge in project sewn is going global, to make something inspired by a country, I choose France and to make a lace bra in longline style. The is made using the Classic bra pattern from pin-up girls by modified alot. The lace is a cream embroidered mesh and the under cup and front band is underlined with silk organza for stability but still maintaining the sheerness of the fabric. I writhe more about sourcing material if you are interested in sewing you own bras in this post.

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Me Made May 12-17

May 12

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Kimono Sleeve dress, leggings and bra all me made.

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Blouse, leggings, me made and a remake skirt form a dress. The head band in the bow from my Bow tied blouse it it the perfect length.

May 13

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Lady skater dress with Chickadee and leggings.

May 14

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The head band is form my bow tied blouse agin and a blue self drafted dress with my chickadee and organic leggings.

 

May 15

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My flowery washi dress with my chickadee and organic leggings.

May 16

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Hawthorn with cayley and leggings. A lot of buttons there I count 20.

May 17

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Belcarra blouse and chataigne shorts and a mashing head band.This photo was taken at 21:30 and night, it was a little dark but still possible to shoot in, with means that summer in coming.

Tania Culottes

Tanja clouset

Tania Culottes by Megan Nielsen made in a light cotton that my mom got for me.. These are my first pair and I had to do a lot of modifications due to the fact the pattern doesn’t come in my size. The fit isn’t perfect yet but absolutely wearable. They hit at a point were the slope between waist and hip is at it’s maximum for me and not in the waist as intended but I prefer the skirt to sit a little lower so thats not an issue. The only thing that is a problem is that I didn’t increase the slope or curve of the waistband enough so it’s gaping in the top of the waist band but tight in the bottom. This makes me want to pull in down more but that is not flattering at all and looks like I am wearing a to small skirt with bulging hips below the waist band, so as long as I don’t pull it down and have i blouse tucked in it works just fine. I will definitely fix this for the next one. I did also lengthen it as much as the fabric allowed, about 14 cm, but that was not enough, I still think that is too short. For the next one I need a lot of fabric 4 skirt lengths in fact. I used about 1.80 meter for this one  I think it’s almost 2 months since I made and photographed it. I only just realized that is had missed the blog when I was adding links for my linen pencil skirt and Belcarra Blouse

Tanja clouset

It’s a genius design and my fitting problem is only due to that I have 3 sizes smaller waist the hips, I love the feminine look that a circle skirt have but they aren’t the best when riding a bike in the the summer with bare legs. They have a tendency to slide up I don’t know how many times I have held down the skirt in one hand and trying to maneuver the bike with the other. But these are short and I will fix that problem since I love skirts and mostly bike where ever I’m going, especially in the summer when the buses are too hot of humans and overloaded by tourists. As soon as I find the appropriate fabric I will make more and longer versions of Tania Culottes.

Tanja clouset Tanja clouset

 

Me Made May 5-11

 May 5

Me made may

Crepe dress with Cayley cardigan and organic self drafted leggings + a fairly old scarf and original 80’s ray ban glasses.

May 6

Me made may

Studying Mania day in Merino Leggings and merino Plantain. and a lot of trying of this half finished pencil skirt later in the evening.

May 7

Me made may

Hawthorn, it was cold so I also wore my Featherweight Cardigan and Cayley Cardigan all at the same time  with nylon stockings.

May 8

Me made may

Teachers dress and remade stockings on an other study day at home.

May 9

Me made may

Presentation day in school, Cambie and my Featherweight and Cayley on top agin it was a win combination.

May 10

Me made may Belcarra blouse and Pencil-skirt

Having a study free day and spending it sewing I finished the skirt in the morning and the Blouse a few hours later. These are Belcarra blouse by Sewaholic and the Pencil-skirt from Gertie’s new book for better sewing, more information on these tomorrow. 

May 11

Me made may

My sailor dress, Robe Reglisse by Deer and Doe and my  Featherweight. I have been on a sewing workshop most of the day and wanted some that allowed me to easily try on trousers, since I would be fitting a pair. It was a nice workshop at Frilagret hosed by a talented local tailor, it is part of a workshop series which include the planning, execution, professional fashion photographing and an exhibition of one outfit/person. It has been wonderful to have expert help and especially when fitting trousers that is new on me and rather difficult to fit on your self. The best is that it is all for free, a cultural project for young adults (about 16-30) to get creative.

Bra making

Bra

This is my first me made bra, it is not perfect but it fits and I love it, there will most definitely be more.

Bra  Bra

I ordered the materials from Bra-makers supply in Canada and since it was the first time, I ordered a complete kit, just to get it right. I was very nervous about making it but it is really quite straight forward, I did read Demystifying bra fitting and construction by Norma Loehr and I recommend it if you are thinking about making your own bras but never get to it or you can just read her blog, it is amazing. Cloth habit also has a lot of good posts about bra-making and a backlog from the bra sew-along from last year. She was the one that originally inspired me to make bras just look at this pink and brown one.

Bh material i Sverige:

B wear: byglar, casing, färdiga kitt och Pin-up girls bh mönster, levererar snabbt och jag fick tillbaka överskottet på portot stort +.

Röda tråden: har även korsett material , Har inte beställt härifrån än men skall testa vilken dag som helst nu då jag planerar att göra en “longline” bh och behöver boning.

Bibbis textil: har byglar och casing mm. (har inte beställt här ifrån)

Om du vet fler så är jag mycket intresserad så lämna gärna en kommentar så jag kan spana in dem. 

The process

I made 2 toils in woven linen in the first one it felt like about everything was wrong and I started to mistrust this idea, it seemed like I ordered the wrong size pattern and inexperienced as I am wasn’t going to be able to fix it but after modifying the band under the cups it all just worked and a little cup modification and it fit me. My size is 38″B but my wire size is 42 so apparently I have flat and wide breast and that it why I have such trouble finding bras that fit.

Bra making sewing

 

I didn’t like the shiny side of the fabric from the kit so I basted it together with the stretch net or the back band to create a matt finnish. I used the pin-up girls Classical bra #1230, I widened the band a bit  and the straps to match my findings.

bra

Circle skirt

circle skirt banksia top

This is a circle skirt made in linen, I bought some linen online in the beginning for the summer, believing that is was a thin nice shirt linen, but when it arrived here it was thick, scratchy and not nice at all. So in an attempt to use up all of my small fabric stash I made this skirt and it is quite nice and I have had a lot of use from it already. I don’t want to have a lot of fabric taking space and especially fabric that is unlikely to be used. and the Baniska top is much better tucked into a skirt.

circle skirt banksia top circle skirt banksia top circle skirt banksia top